System designer Hee Soo Kim was in his flow this season, presenting a light and airy collection against a stark white wave of fabric in perpetual motion.
Titled “Office Daydream,” the collection came across as calm and serene, but Kim sought to reflect the underlying tension of modern life through a minimalist lens. His models may have been in workwear, but their shoes were untied, slipped on as if they were ready to run.
Speaking post-show, Kim credited ’90s Calvin Klein as a key influence. That era’s minimalist aesthetic came through in flowing nylon jackets, soft sweaters and lightly structured shirts.
Opening and closing pure white looks were the parentheses around the collection in a subdued palette of beige, ivory, soft gray and slate blue, with bursts of color and playful combinations such as a slim navy suit over a sunny yellow sweater.
You May Also Like
Sequined button-downs transformed office staples into something ready for an after-hours outing. Think of Tom from Accounting, daydreaming out the window, his mind on the dance floor.
Silhouettes were relaxed and fluid, in line with the new softened take on tailoring seen in Milan and elsewhere in Paris this season. The entire collection moved with ease, as if carried by a breeze.
But Kim’s daydream had a more serious framing.
“I intended to use fabrics that are airy and light, also considering climate change,” he said, speaking through a translator. In a fashion week so far marked by sweltering heat and torrential rain, his intention felt particularly relevant.
In a nod to sustainability, Kim used recycled polyester and deadstock materials from the company’s 36-year archive for much of the collection.
Kim also acknowledged climate is changing consumer habits, and noted the demand for more seasonless pieces in a time of unpredictable weather.
After opening System’s first international flagship in Paris last summer, Kim now has bigger ambitions.
Although the brand is long-established in South Korea, the collections shown on the Paris runway since 2019 have been more fashion-forward and distinct from the more commercial line sold at home.
That divide is now set to change, Kim said. Following the success of its Paris flagship, the brand will open a store in Seoul later this year, offering the international collection for the first time. Kim also has plans to expand this concept across Asia, with future stores in Bangkok and Tokyo.